Knights Templar Sword

Duncan1574

Lodge Chaplain & arms dealer
Russ, none of the old Templar swords are silver. They are all chromed steel. Even if there's rust (very rare on chromed steel) you should NEVER take a Scotchbrite pad to a Templar blade. They are all chemically 'engraved' with 'scenes of knightly honor' and Scotchbrite will mess that up in a big hurry.
Never mind.
Chromed steel should not get tarnished, it can patina. SO I still need the picture of the discoloration to help more.
 

PatrickWilliams

I could tell you ...
Never mind.
Chromed steel should not get tarnished, it can patina. SO I still need the picture of the discoloration to help more.
Of course we need to see pics to be sure, but the single most common 'discoloration' on Templar blades is pitting (where time and body oils have actually eaten through the chrome finish). There's literally nothing you can do about it, other than to clean the blade, oil it, and prevent further pitting. Improper cleaning is the most common cause of this - the blades of Templar swords get handled (albeit mostly by gloved hands, but still). The reality of it is that once a Templar blade gets badly pitted, there's little you can do besides replacing it; the pits in the chrome finish will allow moisture to penetrate to the steel underneath, which will cause :eek: rust.
 

Duncan1574

Lodge Chaplain & arms dealer
Agreed with the pitting. I have my babies displayed in a wall rack, I have to dust them regularly. Dust attracts moisture, which in turn causes rust & pitting. Paste wax works well on most blades after a good cleaning, seals the surface...
 

publius

Master Mason
To polish the tarnish.- Cotton pads and a polishing compound. Try a mild abraisive like Flitz first. if that doesn't work look up Brownell's on the internet and get a polishing compound used by gunsmiths to polish guns before blueing. you could also use any of these polishes on a felt, cotton, or muslin wheel on a variable speed bench grinder. Start on low speed. you can also polish out the name with this method if you get really aggressive with it. You also could probably take it to a good gunsmith or metal plater and have them polish it for you. Put a good coat of wax on it after you polish it and wipe it down with a soft cloth periodically.
 

Casey

MM, RAM, 32nd.
To polish the tarnish.- Cotton pads and a polishing compound. Try a mild abraisive like Flitz first. if that doesn't work look up Brownell's on the internet and get a polishing compound used by gunsmiths to polish guns before blueing. you could also use any of these polishes on a felt, cotton, or muslin wheel on a variable speed bench grinder. Start on low speed. you can also polish out the name with this method if you get really aggressive with it. You also could probably take it to a good gunsmith or metal plater and have them polish it for you. Put a good coat of wax on it after you polish it and wipe it down with a soft cloth periodically.
Fair points all around, though I caution Flitz might be a little aggressive. Maas polish is a slightly milder one that may be a better start point. Also, if you intend to buff it out yourself, please remember a few things.

1. The buffer is the most dangerous tool in a smith's shop. Yes, worse even than the forge. I've seen 14" machete blades buried in the ceiling by a careless moment. Go extremely slowly and carefully.

2. You can't put back what you take off. This applies to everything, of course. Go slow, mask areas you want to preserve, and go slow.

3. Buffed steel can get very hot, very quickly. Work in short sessions, and cool the blade in water if it gets too hot to touch. When I buff a knife, I keep my fingers on the side facing me. If my fingers get too warm, it's time to cool.
 

PatrickWilliams

I could tell you ...
To polish the tarnish.- Cotton pads and a polishing compound. Try a mild abraisive like Flitz first. if that doesn't work look up Brownell's on the internet and get a polishing compound used by gunsmiths to polish guns before blueing. you could also use any of these polishes on a felt, cotton, or muslin wheel on a variable speed bench grinder. Start on low speed. you can also polish out the name with this method if you get really aggressive with it. You also could probably take it to a good gunsmith or metal plater and have them polish it for you. Put a good coat of wax on it after you polish it and wipe it down with a soft cloth periodically.
Fair points all around, though I caution Flitz might be a little aggressive. Maas polish is a slightly milder one that may be a better start point. Also, if you intend to buff it out yourself, please remember a few things.

1. The buffer is the most dangerous tool in a smith's shop. Yes, worse even than the forge. I've seen 14" machete blades buried in the ceiling by a careless moment. Go extremely slowly and carefully.

2. You can't put back what you take off. This applies to everything, of course. Go slow, mask areas you want to preserve, and go slow.

3. Buffed steel can get very hot, very quickly. Work in short sessions, and cool the blade in water if it gets too hot to touch. When I buff a knife, I keep my fingers on the side facing me. If my fingers get too warm, it's time to cool.
EEEPPP! Guys, nonononono. You obviously do not understand how delicate KT blades are. Never take a buffer to them, never take a polish to them. Never, never, never. All KT blades are gold etched, and that etching is very delicate. If you take polish or a buffer to them, then you'll destroy the etching. Mineral oil and elbow grease, brothers, mineral oil and elbow grease. These are the only acceptable things to use on your KT blade, and use the elbow grease sparingly.
 

Casey

MM, RAM, 32nd.
EEEPPP! Guys, nonononono. You obviously do not understand how delicate KT blades are. Never take a buffer to them, never take a polish to them. Never, never, never. All KT blades are gold etched, and that etching is very delicate. If you take polish or a buffer to them, then you'll destroy the etching. Mineral oil and elbow grease, brothers, mineral oil and elbow grease. These are the only acceptable things to use on your KT blade, and use the elbow grease sparingly.
I know very well how delicate they are, my father has several. Since he was wishing to strip it down, I was saying ways to do so safely.
 

PatrickWilliams

I could tell you ...
I know very well how delicate they are, my father has several. Since he was wishing to strip it down, I was saying ways to do so safely.
Casey, I guess it depends on your definition of 'safely'. I would NEVER accept that removing the etchings from a KT blade as a 'safe' thing to do. As a matter of fact, I would never accept that taking a KT blade to a 'replater' to be a safe thing. There are companies out there that will clean and restore KT blades, but they have the technology and patterns to replate and re-etch if and when necessary.
 

Casey

MM, RAM, 32nd.
Well, I will define my terms, then.

My father has his grandfather's KT sword. For that, nothing more than mineral oil and microfiber cloth is "safe".

However, I wasn't referring to the etchings when saying "safe". That was merely physical safety, since he initially read as wanting to strip it to bare.
 

TGriffith

New Member
Sword work

New London Regalia wil re-plate swords, and that includes re-naming them.

http://www.newlondonregalia.com

It is fairly safe to mention them as they are virtually the only KT sword vendor left. Henderson, Ames, Pettibone, etc. are no more. So, if someone has an alternate source, I'd be glad to find out.

Fraternal regards,
Travis Griffith
Quartermaster
Ruthven Commandery #2
 

BukeyeJackson

ViMH Advisory Board
Welcome Travis. Thanks for the infor. Pop over to Initiation and tell us some about you.


Duncan, when you said Conner Katana was that a reference to MacLeod?
 

Ashlar2006

Masonic Mafia
New London Regalia wil re-plate swords, and that includes re-naming them.

http://www.newlondonregalia.com

It is fairly safe to mention them as they are virtually the only KT sword vendor left. Henderson, Ames, Pettibone, etc. are no more. So, if someone has an alternate source, I'd be glad to find out.

Fraternal regards,
Travis Griffith
Quartermaster
Ruthven Commandery #2
And they sell the most beautiful swords , but you are going to pay for them . The only alternate source I have found is buying used ones off of Ebay and some cheaply made new ones . If you pay $35 for a KT sword , do not expect much out of it .
 

Winter

I've been here before

Duncan1574

Lodge Chaplain & arms dealer
Welcome Travis. Thanks for the infor. Pop over to Initiation and tell us some about you.


Duncan, when you said Conner Katana was that a reference to MacLeod?
Aye, I am Connor MacLeod of the Clan MacLeod. I was born in 1518 in the village of Glenfinnan on the shores of Loch Shiel. And I am immortal.
 
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